
One day last summer while at the local laundromat I was nosing around in a magazine and came upon a new recipe for okra. The developer of the recipe was a southern cook used to making fried okra, but he had "seen the light" about not cooking with so much bacon fat (which of course is what made fried okra exceptionally tasty) and he said this: Don't spoil the okra by frying it or cooking it in gumbo. Pick out small okra pods, wash them lightly and sauté them in a frying pan with a balance of olive oil and butter. Cook them until they are just "al dente" (maybe 5 or 6 minutes), then drain, add salt and pepper and eat while hot. He swears that cooks have missed the boat for years by cooking them any other way. He says they were slimy in gumbos (that is correct) and lost their greenness to dark brown when fried in bacon fat (they did). He assures the readers that we will never want to eat them cooked any other way once we try his new way!
I tried his way, and I have two thoughts: Either this man wrote the new recipe just to have something published or he was crazy. I found it hard to believe that his highly touted healthy-cooking okra recipe would be good, and by golly, it wasn’t. I bought baby okra and followed his directions perfectly. And when I put those little sautéed okras in my mouth it was like trying to eat a slimy, hairy crispy bug. They were awful. How could that man say that we’d never go back to fried okra in bacon fat again? I don’t know what that man was thinking.

I am convinced that if grits had a more esthetically-pleasing name, more people would like them. “Grits” and “eggplant” are two delights that I believe suffer from misnaming. I am not a connoisseur of southern foods (and especially not of pig-picking), but at least for the few things I have a personal acquaintance with I can be counted as one of the loyal cheerleaders.